Category Archives: shopping

Strapgate

I haven’t been posting for a real long while. Sorry, I’ve been really busy doing other things. This particular post was kind of caused by a recent affair on the English fanpage of Ewa Michalak. For those of you without Facebook this is what happened: one of Ewa Michalak’s clients posted a link to her blog where she describes an alteration to the straps. Edit: it wasn’t FussyBusty, it was somebody from Ewa’s team – they keep up with all the bloggers.

I can only imagine the face of Ewa when she saw it – and mind you, I have very rich imagination, but it was probably the WTF kind. Well, for a start she kept calm (as all of these recent memes advice) and asked if this problem was common. It turned out, that yes indeed, a lot of her foreign customers remade her bras in the very same way.  Hmmm, here’s a funny thing strikes me and not only me, all the English speaking Polish clients of her – why don’t we  have the same kind of problems? The girls posted links to their photographs in the said bras, Ewa looked at them and here I think she was close to banging her head on the nearest flat surface. Her response was in line with her regular straight forward attitude. Sure, she was not diplomatic at all and no PR specialist would advise her to do this, but she told you the truth. Ladies, Ewa’s  system of measuring for bras is not the same as the British one. After you measure your UB – even in inches, get your I-phone or whatever other smart device into your hand, turn on the calculating app (if you can’t calculate into cm into your head) and basically what you get – your tight measurement in cm (exhale, place the tape horizontally and squeeze without breaking your ribs)  is your band size in Ewa Michalak bras. I agree that the cup that you get out the size calculator on Ewa’s website may not be the right one – this parameter is influenced not only by the measurement of your boobs but also by their shape and texture.

Ewa Michalak’s sizing system is supposed to let you choose your band size based on your real UB measurement in cm. The other thing is – her bra styles are halfcups and plunges, so these are styles that do not cover the entire breast – some tissue will be always exposed. One more thing, they are not supposed to fit the same way the British brands do – those in your sizes often have wires that end up almost on your back – much behind your breast tissue. This is the reason I stopped buying Panache and also Freya – in GG in smaller bands the back part of the band gets really really short. Bravissimo in 32GG is unfortunately the same. The wires of Ewa Michalak’s bras are supposed to encircle your breast and to end just where the breast tissue ends. Not further into your armpit.

I don’t really believe there are so many of you that genuinely need 50, 55 or 60 bands from Ewa, but instead of talking more I’m just gonna show you what bra sizes are worn by Polish customers of Ewa. Sizes and measurements. Almost all these data were taken from Balkonetka, a few other entries came from both Lobbies. I don’t give the name of a given model on purpose – to keep the anonymity of the user. What is shown are: – UB measurement -where I could get it: two measurements – tight one and the one without squeezing the tape. Breast measurement (standing, without bending down, unless both measurements were provided), Ewa’s fitting size; and the user’s assessment of the bra and fit with comments (much abbreviated by me).

UB in cm Boobs in cm EM size rating remarks
1 68 86 65D 5* Wires slightly too narrow
2 66 85 70C 4* The band still holds even though the bra is old
3 64 92 65E 5* The band slightly looser but still holds well
4 71 89 70C 5* My favourite bra now
5 76 101 80F 4* Very comfortable
6 75 101 75E 5* An ok bra
7 67 93 65FF 5* ok
8 78 102 75FF 5* Very comfortable
9 78 115 85HH 4* Very tight band
10 74 102 70H 5* Very tight band, have to use an extender
11 71 101 70G 5* Sensational fit and lift
12 72 115 75HH 5* The band could be tighter
13 71 92 70FF 5* Great fit
14 62 86 60F 5* A bit too small for the bigger boob
15 64 92 60F 5* Moderately tight band
16 68 95 70FF 4* Just beautiful fit
17 60 85 60E 5* Very pleasant on the loosest hook
18 74 102 75G 5* Beautiful and comfortable
18 66 92 65F 4* Very nice effect
19 67 97 65H 5* The band seems loose but holds very well
20 83-87 No date 85G The lift is ok though the wires could be wider
21 68 95 70E75DD
22 71-73 92-93 75C Very tight band (red panther)
23 77 110 75H 4* After many washings it doesn’t give such a lift anymore
24 87-94 116-128 85GG 5* I like the effect.
25 79 94 80DD 4*
26 90 115 90E 5* For me – the best (very wide ribcage but no fat tissue)
27 66 91 65FF 5* Beautiful
28 73 96 75F 5* The band is on the tight side
29 64 92 60F 5* The band is moderately tight
30 71 92 70FF 4* The band is tight (IMO)
31 66 90 65F 5* My new love
31 67 97 65H 5* The band seems on the loose side but holds well
32 93 135 95J 5* Fantastic fit and lift – I can run
33 72 116 70JJ 5* Comfortable and pleasantly tight – I mean the band
34 72 102 70FF 5* Just wonderful
35 59 90 65G 5* A band’s a bit on the loose side, but it’s a second hand
36 76 111 75H 5*
37 76 101 80E 5* I love it
38 59 90 60GG 5* I love the profile
39 61 85 60F 5* Tight band, great fit
40 69 93 70FF 5* Great fit
41 78 108 80F 5* Great fit, comfortable bra
43 73-77 90-94 75E
44 69-72 84-86 70C
45 65-72 83-84 70A
46 69-76 86-96 70E
47 75-82 113-116 75J

None of the numerous Polish customers of Ewa complain about straps cutting into the armpits. What we may complain about are: too short straps, too long straps, straps that adjust only half way, or the fact that the little circle between the front and back part of the strap just gets directly on a shoulder (grrrr, uncomfortable), the straps may roll or stretch or be of not satisfactory quality in our opinion, ect. But never have I heard on Balkonetka or on any of the Lobbies that EM straps cut into the armpits as described by Fussy Busty.

Written by a person who wears EM 75G for 74-77 cm UB and 102 cm around the boobs.

Panthers and vivid coloured half-cups

To begin with I’d like to say sorry for not writing for quite a long time and thank you for coming here and reading my blog even though nothing appeared here since last article about Balkonetka’s catalogue. I’m preparing to open a lingerie shop here in Portugal and I already started another blog to advertise it and also to present the brands that produce full range of sizes. You may have noticed a new link has appeared – Soutienocracia. Yes, it’s the other blog of mine:) However I can’t blame Soutienocracia and lack of time for not writing here – unfortunately it’s also my laziness and addiction to Plants vs Zombies game (which eats up a lot of my free time):P

Today I’d like to return to the Polish brand of Effuniak. It’s one of the brands that I’d like to sell here so I follow what goes on on Ewa’s website quite thouroughly and I also keep on buying some of the bras – just to test them on my breasts etc (I have to know what I’m going to sell, don’t I). At this moment I have to state these are the best constructed bras on the whole market, they just do miracles with the boobs. Mine and not only mine just look spectacular in Effuniaks . You can see that in the Balkonetka’s catalogue. You can also see that recently Ewa did a pre-Christmas suprise to everybody and introduced quite a lot of styles – padded halfcups in black, fuchsia, tourquise, powder pink and red (and complimentary line of plunges in the same colours in bigger cups – apart from powder pink). One more recent novelty is a padded halfcup in glossy cobalt. The latter already has a review on Bramania by kasica_k – a very positive one actually. Kasica’s delighted with it. And you? What do you think about it? The feedback in the commentaries on Stanikomania as well as on Balkonetka (70E , 70D, 70G, 70B)  is kind of mixed. The bra raises very extreme emotions. From the ones of love and delight about the style, fabric, colour and those wide straps, through the ones saying the bra woud fantasic if it wasn’t for for the colour to the ones hating those wide straps as well as the colour. However nobody denies the lifting effect it does to the boobs…

I would like to review collectively 4 more Effuniaks that I bought recently. Two plunges – red panther, black panther (both in 70H) and two plunges – a fuchsia and a tourquise in 75GG.

Here, links to Balkonetka users showing these bras:

red panther: 70C,  70H, 65FF

black panther: 70GG, 65F

fuchsia half cup: 65A, 75GG

tourquoise half cup: 75GG, 65C

FIT

I must say Effuniak produces real back sizes. In most cases taking your British back size is not recommendable. I took these two panthers in 70 and they are real boa constrictors. I would probably be much better off in a 75 in these two models, however as I ordered online and spent quite a lot of time waiting for my sizes to be sewn and then sent to me I decided to keep them. Extenders do exists:P

As far as half cups are concerned I was in Poland when I bought the fuchsia one so I could try it on. Dark half cups are the same boa constrictors as the plunges, for my 73cm of frame measurement a 75 was enough.

The cup size, in my opinion, is standard. I bought the cup size I always take from Ewa – in case of a 70 band it’s an H and GG with a 75 back size.

SHAPE AND UPLIFT

Ewa’s plunges give a shape and uplift that is an absolute mastership of the world. She should be given a Nobel prize for that construction. Half-cups give a shape that resembles more “apples in a basket” image instead of “breast on a tray” effect. Some may say that both of these are indecent… Well, I prefer to be indecent in Effuniaks rather than have my boobs squeezed and unsupported by bras that I would be fitted into in most of the shops.

BEAUTY

Well, as they say the beauty is in the eye of the beholder or you don’t discuss taste… I like wild animal prints as well as bold, deep colours. But I know for sure there are women who don’t apreciate such designs… If we all liked the same things the world would be very boring, wouldn’t it? I give a 5 out 5 mark both to the panthers and to the half cups.

COMFORT

I don’t remember if I mentioned it previously, Effuniaks came high in Bramania’s survey for “the most comfortable bra”. In case of these 4 models I agree too. The half cups are very comfy to wear. The plunges do need an extenter, but once I use it it’s fine, nothing digs in or tries to drill a hole in the sternum or armpits. No discomfort from staps either. The breasts are supported, in fact it’s almost like a luxerious holiday in a spa for them – they just lie in the cups and don’t have to do anything else but look nice. And they almost protest when I take the bra off…

Curvy Kate – Emily Flame

Today I’d like to write about a bra from the brand that I already mentioned in this blog twice – when I was decribing their spring/summer and autumn/winter collections. I just received a package with some bras from the current collection – I have been waiting for them very long, since summer. Curvy Kate website was announcing that the collection was going to be available from August… Well, it wasn’t:( And I just wanted an orange bra… And a few others… Finally, when they started to be available in Lovebras, I purchased them at once. So, ladies, today here’s my very first consumer review:

CURVY KATE EMILY FLAME 32GG

For the sake of order, I’m going to follow the review layout used by kasica of Stanikomania. Kasica, don’t beat!

BEAUTY  (4,5 out of 5)

When I removed the bra from the package I must admit a was a bit disappointed. Flame for me means orange. I was axpecting a fiery bra. I got one that is reddish/coral/ strawberry/raspberry (whatever you decide to call this colour) with an orange embroidery. However, the embroidery is very detailed and cute, the flowers are very well done. There are some nice ribbons at the centre gore and at the apex. Moreover the match of both colours gives a kind of enexpected effect. I had never seen a red and orange bra before…

FIT (5 0ut of 5)

Fiery Emily has quite a tight band. For my 29 inches of chest measurement a 32 was enough and feels stable. Actually, other soft bras from CK that I ordered alos feel snug enough. It’s kind of good that it’s not necessary to go down the size of the band so much anymore – smaller band with a recalculated cup means a bigger letter – in this case H – I’d rather not check out if that size is much more built up than 32GG …

SHAPE AND UPLIFT (5 out of 5)

This model seems to be really compatible with my breast giving them a nice round shape. Which unfortunately I cannot say about another of the bras that I ordered…:( The breast in Emily are elevated to the proper level. This may become one of my favourite bras for the dark and dull season that has just begun.

COMFORT (5 out of 5)

I’m giving a 5 – the bra is comfortable. At least it seems to be so, I haven’t had the chance to wear it for a longer period of time yet, so I can’t say anything more definite yet… For the several minutes that I was wearing and photographing it, I dind’t feel any potential discomforts – wires poking into the armpits or drilling holes into the sternum, or scratching straps, or whatever else. However, I may change my mind. For now, I’m giving the highest mark – it may change…

If you like sets of lingerie, panties are cute too:

 Here you can see the bra on “unphotoshopped” breasts.

Boob friendly brands – Effuniak/Ewa Michalak

Recently, when I was browsing through Thirty Two D forum I came across a post about new discoveries that mentioned Ewa Michalak website and her plunge bras in all sizes. This is one of the reasons I decided to write about Ewa and her designs, the other ones being the fact that at this moment her bra constructions are the absolute best that are available on the market (even though they still are not compatible with every pair of breasts and the designs may not be to everybody’s liking).

To start with – who’s Ewa Michalak? She’s been a lingerie designer for 15 years and during that time she cooperated with Polish lingerie brands such as Corin, Kris Line (you can often find their bras on Brastop), Kinga, Konrad . As she says herself in the interview for Balkonetka: “I came across the Lobby Biusciastych through “The bra alphabet doesn’t end at D”  article written by Kasica of Stanikomania and Butters77 – the founder of the Lobby. It was kind of funny as a magazine with it had been lying in my place for almost two months and I was just going to throw it away but then I decided to cut out some pics for inspiration. It was then that I found this article, I read it and I opened the Lobby website. And my first thought was “Oh my god, I’m so stupid and I know so little’. And when the Lobby brafitters calculated a bra size for me I almost dropped dead.” Ewa, who chose a nickname Effuniak, stayed on the forum and started to design and construct bras for bigger and smaller breasts. The lobbyists started to test these constructions. These bras were really beautiful and girls who got to test them were really kind of lucky ones – that’s how the rest of us perceived it. You can see some of Effuniak bras from that period here . Weren’t they cute? A lot of them were half cups, even for  large breasts (over HH cups). You can just imagine this long virtual queue of women waiting to get one of their own. And unfortunately, few got one:( The designs were unique and mostly unrepeatable, and  at that stage it was impossible for Ewa to start a mass production of lacy bras mainly because of costs.

Later on, last summer, Ewa opened an impromptue shop on her blog. It wasn’t yet a real shop,  yet it was better than nothing. Still you had hundreds of women waiting for new batches of plunges to appear there, and when they did appear they were selling immediately – sometimes almost everything got sold in just one evening. Just like nude bras, or other colourful ones (banana, watercolour, ladybird, peaches ) or even “cow” plunge or “cat” plunge (however controversial they were).

Finally, last autumn Ewa opened a real internet shop. Finally  all of us could buy plunges – auberine, chilli, denim , that were soon followed by sea moss, red moss , pleated bras and quite a few others. What’s more, in autmn collection  the construction of big cups got improved. Before the cup was made from 3 pieces of fabric, now it’s made of four.  This spring and summer brought more designs, among them my personal favourite – powder dots. What this bra does to my breasts is absolutely astonishing. I must admit I got into a kind of self admiration after putting it on – couldn’t stop staring at my tits in the mirror:) Recently Ewa introduced a strapless bra too – although only smaller cups:( to start with. There’s also a photo of a girl testing Ewa’s halfcup on Balkonetka – so maybe this autumn we’ll finally  be able to buy them too.

What is exactly so unique about Effuniaks? Why were all those women so frantic to get them? The answer is – the CONSTRUCTION. I already mentioned it at the beginning – Effuniaks at the moment are the best constructed bras on the market. H+ cups (or even G+) of other brands often have a construction error –  their producers assume that big breasted women have breast under their armpits instead of having them on their front. This problem of “triangular women” is described in Kasica’s article on Stanikomania ( I really suggest Google Translate, or any other “engine translate”, as the article is very interesting). If you’re a G+ you can try an experiment – just fasten your bra in front of you and see what shape it gets – if it’s a cradle, it’s bad…:( In case of Effuniak bras, this error is not there. The cups are fully on the front of the bra. The other thing is underwires – G+ often have very wide ones, wider than it’s really necessary (it’s also conneted with this first error I mentioned) and also very high – can poke into your armpit. Effuniaks have quite narrow and relatively low underwires even in big sizes. Another thing that makes them so unique is the lift – they were even nicknamed -“ elevators for the breasts“.  Just look at this  uplift.  The girl from the second link is also shown without a bra (but wearing a t-shirt) to show the elevation.  Isn’t it amazing?  What more can I say??? Well, recently there’s been another survey on Stanikomania, this time for  “The most comfortable bra”.. Effuniaks won (though not unanimously)…

To cap it off, some practical advice on how to choose a size of an Effuniak bra if you decide to order one. These bras have very tight bands, so if your frame is say 75cm(30inches), in most cases you will be well off in a 75(34) band. In case of Effuniak strapless, you may even need an 80(36). Anyway you have a calculator on the website – you have to take two measurements of your frame – first one  very tight, the second one without squeezing. As for the cup – there’s also a special way to measure for it. Bend down, so that your torso is horizontal,  make sure the tape is vertical and then measure your breasts. Type in your measurements into the calculator (first the measurement of your frame tight, then loosely, then around your breasts), click “jaki mam rozmiar” and you get the answer. But the answer from the calculator is only the starting point, as usual… According to  Ewa  you have to consider the shape of your breasts too, if they look like:

UU – most probably the cup indicated by the calculator will be fine;

00 – the cup indicated may fit but you may need a cup size bigger one; 

OO – you definitely will need a bigger cup size by one or two cups;

VV – the indicated cup may fit, but you may need a smaller one;

W – the indicated cup will be too big, you’ll need one smaller by 2 or 3 cups; 

^^ – breasts that are long and narrow at  the base ending with a kind of a ball – just like a pear – you should take  2 or even 3 cups smaller size than indicated by the calculator.

I hope this will help you check out for yourselves how Effuniak bras fit and what they can do for your breasts:)

2010 autumn and winter collections – Curvy Kate

Summer’s in full swing here, the sun’s shining, everybody’s on holidays but autumn and winter collections of bras are already starting to be available. What do boob-friendly brands have in stock for us for next season? Let’s start browsing. Do you remember the spring collection of Curvy Kate? The autumn/winter one is going to be as exciting and colourful as the former one. Have a look:

I personally like at least 4 of the bras shown and I just can’t wait till they become available in any of internet shops…;)

What about you? Which ones do you like? Which ones would you buy? Well, obviously liking doesn’t necessarily mean buying (hence the second question)… As Bra Fitting Cidade is starting to think seriously about doing something more than just blogging about filling the bra – desert here, your input would be appreciated:)  Any (wanna be) lingerie shop has to make its order now (a lot of existing ones already did it in spring) to allow for future allocation of the stock from the producer:(  So I especially direct this survey to my  Portuguese readers.  Would be helpful and vote?

Photographs courtesy of Curvy Kate.

Boob-friendly brands – Avocado

I’d like to start introducing Polish lingerie brands that produce, have produced or are starting to produce full range of sizes. The brand that I’d like to begin with is Avocado,  a producer of luxerious lingerie for bigger breasted women. The company is not a newbie, they have been on the market already for several years. I remember seeing their first ads in women’s magazines 7 years ago, then visiting their website and salivating at all those beautiful bras.I wanted to have them all. They were quite different from what was available for us in normal shops. First of all, they had D+ cups (up to H), and secondly bras were made of French lace, had intricate embroidery etc They didn’t like like beige tents that we had to buy from most lingerie stores at that time. Here I must admit that a lot of Polish women still haven’t got over this trauma of beige tents – they simply refuse to buy bras in this colour (irrespective of how practical it is) as they were forced to do it for a long time. However there was a little snag too,  Avocado prices were kind of crazy… Out of reach for an average woman with an “average” Polish salary. I was really sad as I couldn’t treat myself to everything they had in the catologue:(

A bit later on (2004), I had a sudden influx of cash and I decided to pamper myself and buy 2 bra and thong sets, a white and blue Tutti Frutti and another one – black with red lace embroidery (already don’t remember its name). So I placed an order for 2 75D bras and bottoms and the waiting started – at that time internet shopping wasn’t developped that much as today, and it seemed like forever to receive my package. Finally it arrived, imagine my joy at having two new fancy bras, and the fact that actually their cups were much two small didn’t really matter to me. At that time I had no idea how a bra should fit, the Lobby of Big Boobed women didn’t exist yet and it didn’t even cross my mind that perhaps, I should have chosen a bigger cup – they were available afer all…

Time went on… The bra awereness among (some) brafitters and women started to develop, so did the size range of Avocado. 2008 collection already had bras up to J cup, now even K is available as well as smaller bands such as 60 and 65. However, Avocado’s K is not equal to a British K cup… Actually it was hard to compare it to the British sizing, because the company’s website was missing a proper size chart for along time:( This year when I decided to treat myself to some luxery again (especially due to the fact that some of the bras were on sale;)) I was really wondering what size to take, in the end I decided to take the biggest cup available with a 70 band… Of course later on I was told on the Lobby they might be too big for my British 32GG… Well, it was too late to change the order, so I waited impatiently biting my fingers when I looked at the diminishing stock of ordered bras at the website (meaning less sizes for a potential exchange). However, I had a really nice surprise when I received the parcel with Kabuki, Creole and two CanCans – two latter ones were fitting perfectly, two former were a little too big (but nothing that I small fold couldn’t solve). And the bras were stunning too – I’ve never had a bra such as Kabuki before… Creole was gorgeous either, with its metallic sheen it’s almost like wearing jewelry. CanCans are not as beautiful, but they are still one of my summer favourites.

Avocado has been enjoying positive feedback also from two other Polish bra bloggers, Kasica of Stanikomania wrote a review of Saskia, giving it a 4 out of 5 note, Mauzonka of Balkonetka did another review about Charlotte with equally positive feedback.

The above photograph (from Balkonetka) shows another model of Avocado bra.  I don’t really like beige bras, I hardly ever wear them – I have one, but I could wear a beige bra like Charlotte. What about you?

I just wonder when the size range of the brand increases even more to accommodate British J and K cups… A size chart is already on the website, so it’s easier to choose a fitting bra. Looking at it you can notice that “a jump” between cups is quite big, bigger than in British bras – where it’s 2,5cm (an inch),  Avocado’s cups grow every 4cm. It seems that the website is being reorganized too – I hope it means it will be possible to pay by credit/debit cards and PayPal. An English version of the website is being prepared too (though it’s not there yet), so non-Polish speakers will be able to order lingerie from Avocado either.

It’s impossible. A story of BiuBiu

 Have you ever wondered why a big boobed woman finds it so hard to fasten buttons on the front of a shirt or can’t find a nice fitting suit or dress that will fit her breasts and at the same time won’t be baggy at the waist and hips? Why is it like that? Why, in addition to not being able to find a right fitting bra in every lingerie shop, can’t we find right fitting clothes? Don’t you start to have enough of brands that you just pay for the label and get a bad fit and equally often not good quality? You could sometimes say that owners of these big clothes brands don’t have eyes and just don’t see that their products are not suitable for real women – no matter if they have big or small breasts… And actually, if you really think about clothes that don’t fit for whatever reason, it turnes out it’s not only breast area that is problematic. It’s also hips and waist – it seems that being curvy there means problem finding well fitting trousers. Also the length of clothes is problematic – still not enough companies produce different lenghts and small people end up shortening their pants, dresses, skirts etc while tall people look a bit strange in too short clothes…

Maith, a Lobby Biusciatych related blogger from Poland tries to answer some of these questions in her latest article. Dear Ladies, let Maith tell you an impossible story of  BiuBiu (website soon available also in English) – a Polish brand that has made an effort and created clothes that include breast sizes.

This company shouldn’t exist at all. Why? Let me explain this to you in 4 points:

1.BiuBiu sees that women have breasts of different sizes and gives enough space in its clothes for our attributes. Normally brands limit their range of sizes to 4 or 5. They don’t care that we differ much more than that. BiuBiu produces clothes in up to 24 sizes. Let’s visualize this:

Typical brand: 34, 36, 38. 40, 42

BiuBiu: 34B, 34BB, 34BBB, 36B, 36BB, 36BBB, 38B, 38BB, 38BBB, 40B, 40BB, 40BBB, 42B, 42BB, 42BBB, 44B, 44BB, 44BBB, 46B, 46BB, 46BBB, 48B, 48BB, 48BBB

Do you see the difference? This must mean higher costs, so typical brands either produce for the minimum or we may be afraid that BiuBiu will disappear from the market. No, that’s impossible (faithfull customers won’t let it happen). Let’s ask the owner.

Bra-fitting: Kinga, what I understand is that these 24 sizes are a “maximum” version, how many do you have in a “minimum” one? How many sizes do you need to have to produce it at all?

BiuBiu: I don’t know how to answer this exactly. I don’t make such assumptions. I create my designs, think up the construction, I sew them and then test them on real women, put some amendments and I see how far it’s sensible to go. For example clothes made of stretchy plain fabric don’t look good on bigger silhuettes. Maximum version means sizes from 34 to 48 in two depths for stretchy fabrics and 3 dephts for unstretchy ones – this means 16 and 24 sizes. Sometimes I don’t make all them – I may skip 34 and 48 as there’s not such a high demand for them. I also take other characteristics of feminine body into account, also height. However I’m not able to vary the sizes more I try to make different lenghts of dresses though it’s not easy – means more pieces to sew. Sometimes I make short, limited series of a given model with a given characteristics. However I can’t afford it too often. Generally, the costs of production rise with each additional size – I’m still a small company and I can’t hold big stock either. It’s cheaper to sew one bigger series rather than to sew less pieces several times.

Bra-fitting: How to create so many sizes? Is there a software that allows to do it?

BiuBiu: You mean software for grading and modeling forms and preparing designs. It’s a tool that speeds up and simplifies work of a clothes constructor.

Bra-fitting: Is it possible to recalculate breasts sizes too?

BiuBiu: Unfortunately inputting date other than (so called) standard doesn’t let create a good construction. In order to recalculate clothes for bigger breasts it’s not enough to enter a bigger amount o centimeters (around boobs). It takes a lot of effort to make something that keeps breasts on the front. And the cost of this software with all the additional stuff is gigantic.

Bra-fitting: What about specialists or books?

BiuBiu: Books that teach construction and size charts used by clothes constructors don’t follow the times, they confuse having big breasts with obesity. An extract from such a book:”A way of calculating lenghts and widths of clothes at chest changes when it is over 100cm. It’s a rule that a healthy person reaches a maximum of 100cm around the chest during his/her development by expanding in other places. 100cm around the chest can be found on older people as a result of their being obese. “ Companies that construct clothes base on size charts from such books. Those I asked to help me work out, say, a suit are not able to do it. I thought that specialists with a lot of years of experience would succeed but what they came up with was something that was completely unsuitable to wear. Even though the were working with my size charts and listening to me remarks what they should be careful about (I have big breasts myself). It’s not about enlargening the form in chest area only, the whole construction needs to be changed – this is what they don’t understand. I had to do it all by myself then – long hours of sitting, calculating each design, each size, each element of a top or a dress.

Bra-fitting: Ok. So you do all the calculations by yourself as nobody is really knowledgable about it. You did it and you to a sewing work room and…?

BiuBiu: And there they look at me as if I were an idiot:”But how can it be like that? So narrow on the back and so much on the front? Who will buy such a thing? So many sizes? No, we won’t sew for you” or “well, yes, but it will be more expensive” It just shows how deeply ingrained some habits are – better to sew a lot of simple things as it’s faster and easier, and the fact that such clothes don’t really fit women is not important. Apart from that they only accept big comissions – don’t make small amounts. I’ve often heard:”dear lady, such things can be only individually tailor made”.

Bra-fitting: I know that even girls with small breasts complain about the lack of space in clothes at chest area. Big breasts don’t fit at all, the tops simply ride up over the navel, small breasts get flattened. I sometimes think a lot of companies make the front the same as the back with the exception of a neck shape…

BiuBiu: I already heard comments like:” We sew clothes for export to Germany or France and the front is always similar to the back. Who ever saw such a narrow back??? Didn’t you make a mistake with it?” No, I didn’t.

Now we’re passing to another “untypical” business behaviour.

2.BiuBiu produces in Europe. You could say, that in times when papers are full of news about companies that are moving/have moved their factories and production to the Third World countries, it is untypical. It’s true that those that move will earn more money, at least momentarily. However, it simply resembles a financial pyramide – they earn more money fast but later on we all lose on this.

3.BiuBiu doesn’t economize on fabrics either and proves that we don’t have to buy poor quality things or less or pay half a salary for a shirt to get a good quality product.

Bra-fitting: How is it possible that all the tops I have from you are still in unaltered shape even though I use them everyday while clothes from networks often: shrink after washing or vice versa, lose colour and start looking like rags?

BiuBiu: It’s a question of approach to a customer. Networks want to buy cheap and sell with a big profit. They demand lowest prices from producers, they in turn, cut these costs by buying cheap fabrics and comissioning sewing in Asia. It affects the quality. When I created BiuBiu I wanted the clothes not only to fit well, I wanted high quality too. That’s why I go to fabric wholesalers and factories myself, I inspect and check each roll of fabric – quality, who produced it, if it doesn’t contain toxic additives. I already have formed some opinions about many of them. I know quite a lot is of really good quality and I can be sure a blouse or a dress made from these will be enjoyed by my customers for a long time. Even threads that I use are “trusworthy” and have all the certificates that the’re not toxic. And I don’t comission sewing to unknown sewing work rooms in cheap countries. Everything is sewn in in my country.

You could probably understand the former points if these clothes were accordingly priced – meaning expensive. But they’re not.

4.BiuBiu’s prices are at an average (network) level.

BiuBiu: Small companies can have lower prices as they don’t spend a fortune on adverising. They simply don’t have money for it but try to do their best and produce the best products they can. Unfortunately it’s the companies that sew for peanuts from cheap fabrics in 3rd World countries, make big advertising compaigns etc, that sell a lot.

To cap it off I’ll tell you a real story – a lot of years ago my husband found fantastic shoes, impossible to wear off , at a very reasonable price. After a few years, when he came back to buy another pair – the brand no longer existed. If he had told some friends about it during that time, then perhaps the brand would still have been there… This is why I’m dedicating this article to BiuBiu.

BiuBiu proves that it is possible. Possible to sew more than 5 sizes, possible to include different breasts sizes, possible to sew in your own country, possible to use good quality fabrics and not charge a fortune for clothes made of them.