Have you ever wondered why a big boobed woman finds it so hard to fasten buttons on the front of a shirt or can’t find a nice fitting suit or dress that will fit her breasts and at the same time won’t be baggy at the waist and hips? Why is it like that? Why, in addition to not being able to find a right fitting bra in every lingerie shop, can’t we find right fitting clothes? Don’t you start to have enough of brands that you just pay for the label and get a bad fit and equally often not good quality? You could sometimes say that owners of these big clothes brands don’t have eyes and just don’t see that their products are not suitable for real women – no matter if they have big or small breasts… And actually, if you really think about clothes that don’t fit for whatever reason, it turnes out it’s not only breast area that is problematic. It’s also hips and waist – it seems that being curvy there means problem finding well fitting trousers. Also the length of clothes is problematic – still not enough companies produce different lenghts and small people end up shortening their pants, dresses, skirts etc while tall people look a bit strange in too short clothes…
Maith, a Lobby Biusciatych related blogger from Poland tries to answer some of these questions in her latest article. Dear Ladies, let Maith tell you an impossible story of BiuBiu (website soon available also in English) – a Polish brand that has made an effort and created clothes that include breast sizes.
This company shouldn’t exist at all. Why? Let me explain this to you in 4 points:
1.BiuBiu sees that women have breasts of different sizes and gives enough space in its clothes for our attributes. Normally brands limit their range of sizes to 4 or 5. They don’t care that we differ much more than that. BiuBiu produces clothes in up to 24 sizes. Let’s visualize this:
Typical brand: 34, 36, 38. 40, 42
BiuBiu: 34B, 34BB, 34BBB, 36B, 36BB, 36BBB, 38B, 38BB, 38BBB, 40B, 40BB, 40BBB, 42B, 42BB, 42BBB, 44B, 44BB, 44BBB, 46B, 46BB, 46BBB, 48B, 48BB, 48BBB
Do you see the difference? This must mean higher costs, so typical brands either produce for the minimum or we may be afraid that BiuBiu will disappear from the market. No, that’s impossible (faithfull customers won’t let it happen). Let’s ask the owner.
Bra-fitting: Kinga, what I understand is that these 24 sizes are a “maximum” version, how many do you have in a “minimum” one? How many sizes do you need to have to produce it at all?
BiuBiu: I don’t know how to answer this exactly. I don’t make such assumptions. I create my designs, think up the construction, I sew them and then test them on real women, put some amendments and I see how far it’s sensible to go. For example clothes made of stretchy plain fabric don’t look good on bigger silhuettes. Maximum version means sizes from 34 to 48 in two depths for stretchy fabrics and 3 dephts for unstretchy ones – this means 16 and 24 sizes. Sometimes I don’t make all them – I may skip 34 and 48 as there’s not such a high demand for them. I also take other characteristics of feminine body into account, also height. However I’m not able to vary the sizes more I try to make different lenghts of dresses though it’s not easy – means more pieces to sew. Sometimes I make short, limited series of a given model with a given characteristics. However I can’t afford it too often. Generally, the costs of production rise with each additional size – I’m still a small company and I can’t hold big stock either. It’s cheaper to sew one bigger series rather than to sew less pieces several times.
Bra-fitting: How to create so many sizes? Is there a software that allows to do it?
BiuBiu: You mean software for grading and modeling forms and preparing designs. It’s a tool that speeds up and simplifies work of a clothes constructor.
Bra-fitting: Is it possible to recalculate breasts sizes too?
BiuBiu: Unfortunately inputting date other than (so called) standard doesn’t let create a good construction. In order to recalculate clothes for bigger breasts it’s not enough to enter a bigger amount o centimeters (around boobs). It takes a lot of effort to make something that keeps breasts on the front. And the cost of this software with all the additional stuff is gigantic.
Bra-fitting: What about specialists or books?
BiuBiu: Books that teach construction and size charts used by clothes constructors don’t follow the times, they confuse having big breasts with obesity. An extract from such a book:”A way of calculating lenghts and widths of clothes at chest changes when it is over 100cm. It’s a rule that a healthy person reaches a maximum of 100cm around the chest during his/her development by expanding in other places. 100cm around the chest can be found on older people as a result of their being obese. “ Companies that construct clothes base on size charts from such books. Those I asked to help me work out, say, a suit are not able to do it. I thought that specialists with a lot of years of experience would succeed but what they came up with was something that was completely unsuitable to wear. Even though the were working with my size charts and listening to me remarks what they should be careful about (I have big breasts myself). It’s not about enlargening the form in chest area only, the whole construction needs to be changed – this is what they don’t understand. I had to do it all by myself then – long hours of sitting, calculating each design, each size, each element of a top or a dress.
Bra-fitting: Ok. So you do all the calculations by yourself as nobody is really knowledgable about it. You did it and you to a sewing work room and…?
BiuBiu: And there they look at me as if I were an idiot:”But how can it be like that? So narrow on the back and so much on the front? Who will buy such a thing? So many sizes? No, we won’t sew for you” or “well, yes, but it will be more expensive” It just shows how deeply ingrained some habits are – better to sew a lot of simple things as it’s faster and easier, and the fact that such clothes don’t really fit women is not important. Apart from that they only accept big comissions – don’t make small amounts. I’ve often heard:”dear lady, such things can be only individually tailor made”.
Bra-fitting: I know that even girls with small breasts complain about the lack of space in clothes at chest area. Big breasts don’t fit at all, the tops simply ride up over the navel, small breasts get flattened. I sometimes think a lot of companies make the front the same as the back with the exception of a neck shape…
BiuBiu: I already heard comments like:” We sew clothes for export to Germany or France and the front is always similar to the back. Who ever saw such a narrow back??? Didn’t you make a mistake with it?” No, I didn’t.
Now we’re passing to another “untypical” business behaviour.
2.BiuBiu produces in Europe. You could say, that in times when papers are full of news about companies that are moving/have moved their factories and production to the Third World countries, it is untypical. It’s true that those that move will earn more money, at least momentarily. However, it simply resembles a financial pyramide – they earn more money fast but later on we all lose on this.
3.BiuBiu doesn’t economize on fabrics either and proves that we don’t have to buy poor quality things or less or pay half a salary for a shirt to get a good quality product.
Bra-fitting: How is it possible that all the tops I have from you are still in unaltered shape even though I use them everyday while clothes from networks often: shrink after washing or vice versa, lose colour and start looking like rags?
BiuBiu: It’s a question of approach to a customer. Networks want to buy cheap and sell with a big profit. They demand lowest prices from producers, they in turn, cut these costs by buying cheap fabrics and comissioning sewing in Asia. It affects the quality. When I created BiuBiu I wanted the clothes not only to fit well, I wanted high quality too. That’s why I go to fabric wholesalers and factories myself, I inspect and check each roll of fabric – quality, who produced it, if it doesn’t contain toxic additives. I already have formed some opinions about many of them. I know quite a lot is of really good quality and I can be sure a blouse or a dress made from these will be enjoyed by my customers for a long time. Even threads that I use are “trusworthy” and have all the certificates that the’re not toxic. And I don’t comission sewing to unknown sewing work rooms in cheap countries. Everything is sewn in in my country.
You could probably understand the former points if these clothes were accordingly priced – meaning expensive. But they’re not.
4.BiuBiu’s prices are at an average (network) level.
BiuBiu: Small companies can have lower prices as they don’t spend a fortune on adverising. They simply don’t have money for it but try to do their best and produce the best products they can. Unfortunately it’s the companies that sew for peanuts from cheap fabrics in 3rd World countries, make big advertising compaigns etc, that sell a lot.
To cap it off I’ll tell you a real story – a lot of years ago my husband found fantastic shoes, impossible to wear off , at a very reasonable price. After a few years, when he came back to buy another pair – the brand no longer existed. If he had told some friends about it during that time, then perhaps the brand would still have been there… This is why I’m dedicating this article to BiuBiu.
BiuBiu proves that it is possible. Possible to sew more than 5 sizes, possible to include different breasts sizes, possible to sew in your own country, possible to use good quality fabrics and not charge a fortune for clothes made of them.